Jewels have permeated the fabric of our culture since early human civilisation. As designs evolved, the trends often mirrored societal changes as they were happening. History is scattered with countless examples of this, including Suffragette jewels crafted with Green, White and Violet gems to denote “Give Women Votes”.
Art Deco jewels displayed a departure in style from the Art Nouveau preferences for delicate depictions of bows and ribbons, flora and fauna. The Deco era was a reaction to the austerity of World War 1, as the “Roaring 20’s” came into full swing. Marked by a feeling of economic prosperity and liberation, the platinum jewels displayed a geometric form with strong lines and often a single accent colour.
In addition to cultural changes, advancements within technology have influenced the jewellery trade. In the early 20th century, the invention of the oxyacetylene torch allowed jewellers to reach new temperatures, which were hot enough to create solid platinum jewellery. In more recent times, less hand made jewellery is being produced as Computer Aided Design (CAD) and 3D Wax Printing are prevalent in contemporary jewellery houses.
From early techniques of hand cutting gemstones, advancements lapidary have resulted in highly precise scanning of rough material to establish the best plan for cutting, maximising the profit and producing less wastage.
In recent years, Lab Grown Diamonds have been a headline-grabbing discussion, both within trade circles and the wider public. Here, carbon is subjected to high heat and pressure, mimicking the conditions present in the earth’s crust that form natural diamonds. They are faceted and graded in mostly the same way as natural diamonds and can’t be distinguished by eye from their natural counterparts.
Lead by professional jeweller Violet Bye, the Jewel Savoir serves both enthusiasts and professionals as a space for insight and discussion on jewellery topics. Here we showcase designer talent from past and present, including those who are carving our 21st Century Jewellery history in real time.
Jewel Savoir 